Here’s the thing about the week after a flood: you don’t need perfect, you need a plan. The goal isn’t to remodel on Day 1—it’s to make the house safe, stop mold from getting a head start, and prove to yourself (and your insurer) that the place is drying down on schedule. This 7-day timeline is built for real life: quick wins first, smart cuts next, and a simple moisture-log habit so you can see progress even when everything feels muddy. Work methodically, protect your health, and don’t close anything up until the numbers say it’s ready.
If you’re reading this while you’re exhausted, you’re not alone. Start with power, gas, and photos. Open things up, get air moving, and keep notes. You’ll be surprised how much better the house smells and sounds by Day 3 once airflow and dehumidifiers are doing their job. Save every receipt and snapshot; future you will thank present you.
Day 1 — Safety, Documentation, Triage 🦺
Checklist
- Turn off power at the main if water touched outlets or the service panel. Smell for gas; if suspected, exit and call utility.
- Wear PPE: boots, heavy gloves, eye protection, and at minimum an N95 (respirator preferred). Kids and pets out of the work zone.
- Photograph every room before moving anything (wide shots + close-ups). Mark the visible water line with painter’s tape.
- Contact insurer; start a claim; ask exactly what they need (photos, item list, moisture logs). Save all receipts.
- Pump standing water down in stages (≈1/3 per day if foundation looks stressed). Use wet/dry vacs for shallow pooling.
- Open windows/doors if weather allows; set box fans blowing out to exhaust humid air. Stage dehumidifiers centrally.
Day 2 — Muck-Out & Gut the Wet Stuff 🧹
Checklist
- Shovel out silt and debris first. Bag and stage according to local guidance (separate household trash vs. construction debris).
- Pull carpet and pad; remove and discard saturated rugs, upholstered furniture, mattresses, and fiber insulation that got wet.
- Do “flood cuts” on drywall: cut 12–24 inches above the highest water line (higher if sewage/river water). Remove wet baseboards and door casings.
- Pop toe-kicks on cabinets; if backs got soaked, plan to remove. Save intact solid wood; discard swollen particleboard/MDF.
- Keep fans and dehumidifiers running 24/7. Aim for indoor RH below ~50% as quickly as possible.
Day 3 — Clean, Disinfect, and Airflow Management 🧽
Checklist
- Scrub studs, plates, and subfloors with detergent and clean water. Rinse lightly—don’t re-soak the house.
- Disinfect structural surfaces using an EPA-listed product for post-flood cleanup. Follow label directions for dwell time and ventilation.
- Angle fans to create cross-flow past wet surfaces; avoid blasting one spot. Keep dehumidifiers central with doors open for circulation.
- Open more cavities: closet backs, behind tub panels, under stair risers—hidden damp pockets grow mold fast.
| Material | Keep / Toss | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Drywall/trim | Toss if wet | Cut above line; remove wet insulation behind |
| Solid wood | Keep if drying | Clean + dry to safe moisture before sealing |
| Engineered wood/MDF | Usually toss | Swells/delaminates; mold risk |
| Fiberglass/mineral wool | Remove if saturated | Replace after cavity is dry |
Day 4 — Drying Targets & Hidden-Moisture Hunt 🌬️
Checklist
- Measure and log moisture morning/evening. You want numbers trending down, not flat. Move fans if an area stalls.
- Check inside closets, behind appliances, and at exterior wall bottoms. Drill small weep holes in sheathing cavities if instructed by a pro.
- Address crawlspace: pump/puddles, remove silt, and set a temporary fan to exhaust damp air outside.
- Swap dehumidifier buckets/hoses; clean filters on fans and shop-vacs.
Day 5 — Mold Recheck, Odors, and Rust Control 🔎
Checklist
- Inspect studs, plates, and subfloor for any fuzzy growth or staining. Clean again where needed; improve airflow to stubborn corners.
- Deodorize with ventilation first; charcoal/baking soda can help small spaces, but drying is the real cure.
- Wire-brush light surface rust on fasteners/hinges; wipe and dry. Replace corroded electrical components only with a licensed pro.
- If indoor RH still won’t drop, you likely need more dehumidification capacity or to close off outside humidity.
Day 6 — Rebuild Planning & Flood-Resistant Choices 🧱
Checklist
- Confirm with your moisture log that framing is trending to safe levels. Photograph meter readings next to studs/subfloor.
- Line up permits and quotes. Ask about flood-resistant materials: tile or sealed concrete, pressure-treated sill plates, closed-cell insulation, mineral wool, fiberglass faced drywall, water-resistant baseboards.
- Plan mitigation: add flood vents (where applicable), elevate outlets/appliances, relocate HVAC/WH above prior water line.
- Request itemized materials/labor; save PDFs/emails for insurance and future buyers.
| Upgrade | Why it helps | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Elevated outlets | Reduces future loss | Ask inspector for local code guidance |
| Closed-cell foam | Low water absorption | Use above typical flood line |
| Tile/sealed concrete | Dries, easy to sanitize | Skip wood in flood-prone rooms |
| Flood vents | Equalize pressure | For specific foundation types |
Day 7 — Final Checks, Paperwork, and Next-Round Prep 📁
Checklist
- Do a slow walkthrough: look, sniff, and meter. Any damp readings or odors? Fix before closing walls.
- Assemble a binder: claim number, adjuster notes, before/after photos, receipts, moisture logs, contractor bids, permits.
- Set the “next storm” list: gutters/downspouts, re-grading, check valves/backflow preventer, sump pump with battery backup, French drain options.
- Make a neighborhood kit: shared tool library (fans, dehumidifiers, PPE), contact sheet, and SMS alert list.
You made it through the first week, and that’s the hardest part. If the moisture readings are trending down and the odors are fading, you’re ready to plan the rebuild with materials that won’t betray you in the next storm. Keep one dehumidifier running, keep logging, and pause if you see stubborn damp spots or fresh growth—fixing those now is cheaper than tearing out finished walls later. When you’re ready, schedule final safety checks (electrical, HVAC, structural), then rebuild smarter: elevate outlets, choose flood-tolerant finishes, and consider vents or drainage upgrades.
Finally, don’t do this alone. Share fans and tools with neighbors, swap checklists, and set up a simple text thread for weather alerts. The point isn’t just to get back to normal—it’s to come back drier, stronger, and ready for the next round.
